HAMADAN, Iran — Mahdi, 24, has been working out for the past six months, only to have a better looking body during the mourning of the Shiites in Muharram and attract people’s attention, especially women to his physique. Neither the coronavirus nor any other challenges can prevent Mahdi from attending the ceremony.
As the pandemic reached its peak in Iran, to the point that on Sunday the country recorded 620 deaths, the highest since the start of the pandemic, the Iranian government on Monday announced a holiday until Saturday.
Mourning ceremonies for the death of Imam Hussein, the prophet’s grandson are held annually in Iran, starting on the first day of Muharram, the first month of the Islamic year.
This year in Iran, just like every other year the ceremonies continue, despite the pandemic. Even though this has been criticized by many experts and social media activists, it seems like nothing can stop the ongoing ceremonies.
The city of Hamadan, which is the capital of Iran’s western Hamadan province, is home to around half a million people. The city is a Shiite majority and the people are known to take the mourning ceremonies very seriously. As you enter the city, black flags can be seen everywhere and many of the people are dressed in black.
Asghar Mohammedi, 62, who has a shop in the center of Hamadan bazar selling black fabric and special flags for Muharram, told Rudaw English, “Even though in the past two years our sales have decreased due to coronavirus and economic crisis, people still come to us to buy Muharram clothing and decorations.”
“People know that coronavirus is dangerous, I personally have lost three relatives to the virus, but Muharram and Ashura are hundreds of years of tradition that we are used to and we cannot ignore it,” Mohammedi said.
The Hamadan market is filled with crowds buying clothing and equipment for the mourning ceremonies.
“I am a firm Shiite believer, nothing would stop me from participating in the mourning ceremony, even if it rains fire, my family and I will participate in the ceremony and life and death is in God’s hand,” Mojtaba Karim, who was at the market with his wife and two children to buy equipment for the ceremony told Rudaw English.
Zainab Chardoli, 55, is wearing her black abaya covering her face and has come to buy goods to make Ash, a soup made during the month of Muharram which people make in large portions and give out to others.
“As far as I remember, we have made Ash in Muharram with my family and have given it to people. Muharram is not just the month of mourning, you have to also watch out for the poor and make food for them for the sake of Imam Hussein. I personally give out several meals to people during Muharram,” she said.
“It is true that there is the coronavirus, but a huge ceremony like mourning Imam Hussein should not be altered with any excuses. I am willing to die as long as this ceremony is not altered. We have been used to this since we were children,” she added.
Normal music can no longer be heard from the cars in the city, only specific mourning music and solemn nasheeds. Some of the cars have put up black flags, and the city is completely in lamentation.
Twenty-four-year-old Mahdi Adak is a taxi driver. He is wearing a short sleeved black shirt to show his athletic build.
“It is true that many people are mourning and are doing this for a religious purpose, but for the youth it is also a chance to find female friends,” Adak told Rudaw English with a smile.
“I have personally been working out for the past six months so during the ceremony when I hit myself, I look better and girls will look at me. There are many men and women who meet during these ceremonies and then get married,” he said. “Hopefully I will be lucky this year and meet a good girl to marry later. Even if there are ten different viruses like corona, I will still participate.”
“Muharram is good for many people too, for example people who sell black fabric, they profit during this month as much as the rest of the year,” he added. “I have friends that have restaurants and in this month they make large profits, because people buy food from them and give it out to poor people.”
During Muharram, not only are the Shiite areas mourning, but any form of parties and weddings are banned in the Sunni areas as well.
The city of Hamadan is considered a tourist attraction due to its large number of historic and cultural sites. People from other parts of Iran and other countries visit the city every year, but this year the coronavirus has reduced the amount of visitors.
There are also people that that are apathetic to the mourning ceremonies in the city.
Shahin Ahmadi, 28, unlike the rest of the people of the city, is wearing white and playing loud western rap music from his car.
“I do not believe in the mourning because I think it is an old tradition, even though people look at me differently and my parents are upset at my actions, but the world has changed,” Ahmadi said. “I cannot walk down the same path as my father and grandfather, I do not like mourning and crying and believe life should be enjoyed.”
